Third generation dairy
farmer Jess Vaughan is up at 5.30 milking her herd of 80 'ladies' at her Severn
Valley farm. By 10am her organic milk is on sale - at a motorway services on
the M5. How did the farm shop concept take hold in such an unlikely setting and
what are the benefits for traditionally deprived areas of Gloucestershire?
HAPPY COUPLE: Jess Vaughan with one of the herd’s ‘ladies’, Bunty |
OUT of work and not sure what direction to take, Mark Gale
signed up for one of the Government’s latest job creation schemes.
Little did he think that 40 years later, after a lifetime
helping people in challenging communities, he would be the driving force behind
one of the most unusual and innovative marriages of local interest, rural
business and commercial realism.
In the 1990s Gale was a community worker on the Matson
estate in Gloucester and struggling to find a worthwhile project to create
sustainable change and bring about long term benefit. He took the far-reaching
decision to have outsiders conduct an ‘impact assessment’ looking at how the
ring of council estates around Robinswood Hill to the south of Gloucester could
be re-engaged.
“The communities had lost their way,” recalls Gale, now a
youthful 61. “People were no longer using the hill for recreation while jobs
and health continued to be a problem.”
That assessment pointed Gale back in the direction of the
far-sighted, but improbably complex idea of developing land just a few miles
further south for what was then called a ‘Service Station’ on the M5.
Driving force Mark Gale at the Gloucester Services |
The modern-day motorway knights arrived in the shape of
national funding from the Tudor Trust and local money from the Summerfield
Trust. Gale talked the farmers into selling by emphasising the benefits to the
local community, chaperoned the project through planning and then set about
finding the right partner for his vision.
“We wanted to show that local communities can create a
significant business, a business that would bring value to producers and
customers as well as provide jobs and support for people who needed the help,”
says Gale.
Two hundred miles north, at Tebay on the M6, the Westmorland
Family business was already doing just that. Their story began in 1972 when
John and Barbara Dunning, Cumbrian hill farmers, set up Tebay Services when the
M6 cut though their farm. They opened a small 30 seat café serving home cooked,
locally sourced food. The Dunnings viewed the M6 not as the death of their
farm, but the beginning of a whole new chapter in how they ran the business.
“It really was good timing,” says daughter Sarah Dunning,
who is now chairman of a business that has six outlets across the country. “We
were thinking about the future and along came Mark with his slightly
unorthodox, but very exciting, idea.”
With Gale as the CEO of the Gloucestershire Gateway Trust, a
registered charity specifically designed the push through the Services project,
and the Westmorland Family on board as the business brains the site opened for
business in May 2014 on the northbound side and southbound a year later.
The partnership enables the Trust to benefit from a
percentage of sales which go back into the community. But it is not just about
charitable donations; it is a more fundamental way of connecting business and
community for the benefit of both.
“We both get more out of it than we could generate on our
own,” says Gale. “There are 350 staff here, 98 per cent of them from
Gloucestershire and 22 per cent from the target communities that kicked off
this project.”
With its distinctive ‘eyebrow’ architecture, and a grass
roof, it pushes against the norm of the busy-busy, rush-rush feel of many
motorway services. There is, for instance, very little signage and absolutely
none outside the main building. “We had an advantage building from scratch,”
says Dunning. “And we wanted to give a bit of calm. I think that’s what people
want when they pull off the motorway.”
And calm they get. Plus enough toilets to accommodate a
coach party, freely available showers and even a pond with ducks to contemplate
while sipping your ecocoffee. Inside the spacious building 160 local suppliers
stock the shelves with everything from meat, cheese and fish through to bread, ice
cream and crafts.
The Trust works in partnership with local charities
including The Nelson Trust, Play Gloucestershire, GL Communities, Fair Shares
Community Time Banks and All Pulling Together Community Association in
Stonehouse and Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust.
Last year marked the 10th anniversary of Gloucestershire
Gateway Trust and each of the local charity partners received grants directly
from Gloucester Services profits. The promise of a guaranteed annual income
from Gloucestershire Gateway Trust and Gloucester Services partnership will
enable the charities to plan ahead and continue their work.
The landscaped services building – not a sign in sight |
And what does everyone make of its success? “This site is
twice as busy as Tebay and we continue to keep very firm sight of our social
objectives and business objectives,” says Dunning. “This was a project many
years in the making and it is wonderful to see it up and running doing what it
was designed to do.”
And Gale, a former UK Social Entrepreneur of the Year who
has pioneered community businesses and business community partnerships, is
still seeing clearly. “Everyone who comes on a visit I make them walk up to the
top and view the landscape from the Cotswold hills to the Severn Valley with
Gloucester in between. There are the people we are really serving. It’s a
different way for business and charity to work together but it just works.”
Last word, though, with a family from Manchester who were
enjoying the sunshine ‘Welcome Break’ on their way to Devon on holiday. “We
just stopped for a break thinking it would be the usual Greggs and Costa,” said
dad, between mouthfuls of wild boar sausage roll, “but it is refreshingly
different, so we’re staying for a bit.”
They are not the only ones…
From making pies in the farm kitchen to a £2m business
THE PIE LADY: Deborah Flint at Cinderhill Farm |
JUST like on one of those TV ‘lifestyle’ shows, Deborah and
Neil Flint left behind their jobs in fundraising and IT and started a new
adventure on a farm in the furthest reaches of Gloucestershire just a few miles
from the Welsh border near St Briavels.
That was seven years ago and having never farmed before, the
Flints took a short course before they embraced the rural lifestyle at Cinderhill
Farm in the Forest of Dean named after the ash black soil around the farm.
The land had not been a working farm for several years and
the couple restored the land to its former use, installing water harvesting
systems and other eco measures to sustain the running of the farm. They are
dedicated to keeping traditional native breeds including Black Welsh Mountain
sheep and British Saddleback pigs.
However, hit by the financial realities of farming, they
realised extra income was needed and in February 2013, Deborah began to produce
pies in their farm kitchen. Within six weeks, the production unit for pies and
sausage rolls was moved out of their domestic kitchen into the ‘Pie House’, one
of the outbuildings on the farm.
Word quickly spread about the products and the ‘Pie House’
has since been through two upgrades. The last upgrade took place in 2015 in
response to the success of the produce at Gloucester Services.
The range now includes the Original Cinderhill Farm Sausage
Roll of Exceeding Enormity (made with real meat joints; low in fat), the Forest
Ridgeback wild boar sausage roll and the Foggy (Forest Oggy, where oggy is
another term for pasty).
TASTY: The wild boar sausage rolls made at Cinderhill |
Since providing the services farm shop with their first
sausage rolls in May 2014 they have supplied over one million pounds worth of
products, around £2m at retail value. In an area of rural poverty they now
provide seven full time jobs, some part-timers and enough custom for two jobs
at the local butcher.
“Gloucester services has an influence way beyond that which
can be easily quantified,” says Deborah, 55. “It offers a stronger future for
our community and our county.”
Just a few miles from the services the Vaughan family have
been farming at Hardwicke Farm, located at the base of the Severn Valley in
view of the Cotswold hills, for three generations.
Jess Vaughan knows the 80 ‘Ladies’ all by name and milks
them personally every day to ensure they’re a happy, healthy herd. They do not
homogenise their milk, preferring to leave all its nutrients as nature
intended.
The fresh milk takes just four hours to reach the services farmshop,
delivered alongside yoghurt, cream and a creamy, tangy fermented concoction
called Kefir, which might just take off after exposure on The Archers of all
places.
“Our herd are all individuals,” explains Jess, 37. “But most
are more than happy to have a cuddle and actively seek attention. They are
allowed to be who they want to be personality wise.
“The name Jess’s Ladies came from the fact that we were
struggling for a name for our own farm bottled milk. Then one afternoon I said
I had to go because I had to get back and milk the ladies – and so it was done.”
Cinderhill and Jess’s Ladies are just two of the 130 producers
from within 30 miles of the front doors and 70 from further afield.
SERVING IT UP - M5 FACT FILE
- · It is the first bee friendly motorway services in the UK. The services roof is seeded with a wildflower and grass seed mix, creating the perfect habitat for the bee population who live in the on-site hive.
- · There is free tap water available reducing the need for customers to buy plastic bottles.
- · Left over cooking oil is recycled as bio-diesel to be used in diesel engines
- · The services employ 350 people, working in jobs as wide ranging as catering, retail, filling station, management, accounts, HR, maintenance and IT
- · Look out for unusual birds with a wildlife spotter sheet created with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust to help identify species around the services
- · A total of 328,093 cakes, all made fresh on site by teams of bakers, were served in the year to June 2018.
- · There is a well signposted dog walk and free water bowls available at the front entrances
This article originally appeared as a 'Long Read' in the Western Daily Press